Index of 1930s Mystery Maker jewelry images

This is a descriptive index of the various “Mystery Maker” jewelry designs shown on this site. I have grouped them according to their main design element – e.g., bow, chevron (half-bow), geometric shapes (circle, hexagon, etc.) Each item is a link to the post in which it appears.

A gallery of their regularly-used chains appears below. All of their chains and castings were brass but some received a silvertone, bright goldtone, or coppertone plating as well. Chains that were fully dipped in enamel paint are described by their color(s), e.g., “yellow/orange/dark brown”, “blue & silvertone”, etc. Chains that are only partially painted are noted as “accented” (e.g., “green and black accents on brass”) or, for the flat mesh chains, “patterned.” Items without any paint are listed simply as “brass” or, if plated brass, “silvertone”, “coppertone” and “bright goldtone.”

The Mystery Jewelry Maker also used six styles of flat chains:

The “watchband style” is 5/8″ wide but there was also a 1/8″ narrow version which is just a single outer row. The “flat mesh” chain came in two widths: 3/8″ (nine rows of links) and 5/8″ (11 rows.) There’s also what I call the “woven mesh chain” because its construction differs from the ‘flat mesh’. The narrow woven mesh chain is 1/8″ wide.

Their “tubular mesh” chain may be simply a rolled version of their woven mesh chain. It is flexible enough to be tied in knots.

These are the clasps this maker used. In addition, a spring ring clasp was typically used on the snake, heavy link, large box, and pointed-end flat mesh chains. Photos of their special decorative front clasps appear at the start of that link section.

If no quantity of chain is indicated in a description, that means there is only one. The first (necklaces) section of this index is followed by a section for bracelets; the few brooches discovered are at the end. I have not yet found any earrings by this maker.

BOW MOTIFS

The majority of bow motifs by the Mystery Jewelry maker come from two castings. The larger bow has a matching pointed/tear-shaped drop except when made as a brooch. The ‘tails’ of this bow were also used in combination with other shapes.

The smaller bow received various stampings – which I’ve dubbed Nouveau, Nubbly, and Tailored – although some were left unstamped for an especially Deco look.

The cutout/slashed bow reminds me of ribbons and I’ve found it in two styles. One is clearly from the Small-Bow family because it has the “rear wings”. The other (style B) does not have the wings and the middle “ribbon” is slightly wider. The third bow may be Bakelite or some other Deco era plastic; these usually appear with a sleek pair of tails I’ve named “deco bow tails.”

Nouveau bow on snake chain; silvertone
Nouveau bow, white & black, on white 5/8″ woven mesh flat chain
Nouveau bow, white & light blue with ‘bubbles’ drops; blue narrow woven flat chain
Nouveau bow, white & black with bubbles drops; narrow woven flat chain in same colors

Tailored bow, watchband style mesh chain; brass w/traces of black paint
Tailored bow, watchband style mesh chain with pointed ends; silvertone
Tailored bow, watchband style mesh chain with box clasp; silvertone
Tailored bow with turquoise glass stone in center; watchband style chain; silvertone
Tailored bow with pink glass stone in center, watchband style chain; silvertone

Unstamped bow with 1934 Worlds Fair medallion in center; watchband style chain
Unstamped bow with 1934 Worlds Fair medallion in center; red watchband style chain
Unstamped bow with dome center, 5/8″ flat mesh chain, silvertone

Green Bakelite bow with brass deco tails; brass ladder chain
Green Bakelite bow with silvertone deco tails; silvertone ladder chain
Green Bakelite bow with silvertone overlapping deco tails; silvertone ladder chain
Red Bakelite bow (no tails);silvertone ladder chain
Black Bakelite bow (no tails); silvertone ladder chain

Deco bow tails below a dome, 5/8″ flat mesh chain; all silvertone but tails have red accents

CHEVRON (TRIANGLE) MOTIF

This “chevron”, or triangle, motif is actually one half (side) of the small bow casting. Unlike the full bows, I have only found it in the Tailored stamping. It often has a fringe of small box chains but not always.

Brass chevron with no fringe; 3 small box chains
Silvertone chevron with green accents; no fringe; set on an open oval that is half silvertone/half green (non-original chain)
Silvertone chevron with tan and brown accents; on a tan narrow watchband chain
Silvertone chevron w/black & green accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain
Silvertone chevron w/black outer & red inner accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain
Silvertone chevron w/red outer & black inner accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain
Blue shades, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Blue & white, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Pink/blue/cream, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Greens & white, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Red and dark browns, with fringe; 3 small box chains
White, black & grey, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Dark brown & tan, with fringe; 3 tubular mesh chains

FLOWERS AND/OR LEAVES

This category includes what I call the “lotus flower” motif which could be interpreted as a flower, leaves, or a fan shape.

DECORATIVE ELEMENTS by SHAPE

If there is more than one element/shape, it is sorted by the dominant one.

CIRCLES & DOMES
Open circle in center, silvertone and brown; flanked by 2 silvertone squares; brown 5/8″ woven mesh flat chain
Open circle topped with three small balls; centered on 3/8″ flat mesh chain with front-crossed ends; box clasp; brass/goldtone
Open circles (3) in blue with silvertone large bow tails; narrow watchband chain
Open circles (3) grouped in center with ribbed links; tubular mesh chains; bright goldtone
Open circular Celtic-motif links all around; brass
Circle and dome center station (brass) with 2 dangling white tassels; white watchband style flat mesh chain
Dome with center tab, on 3/8″ mesh chain; silvertone
Low dome with a rosette center, silvertone & creamy white; four tubular mesh chains painted creamy white; silvertone clasp
Flat-topped dome with vertical tab in center over blue paint; blue watchband style mesh chain in front, silvertone dome-and-D-link chain in rear
Flat-topped dome with vertical tab in center over yellow paint; yellow watchband style mesh chain in front, silvertone dome-and-D-link chain in rear
Aztec style dome pendant with black accents; large box chain; brass
Aztec style dome pendant with blue and black accents; large box chain; brass
Aztec style dome pendant with green and black accents; large box chain; brass

OVALS
Open oval center station flanked by faux marcasites and with a 4-chain fringe; 2 small box chains; medium & dark blue
The same necklace as above, but without the box-and-fringe element
Open ovals (3 silvertone) connected by faux marcasite links; salmon pink 5/8″ woven mesh chain
Oval art-nouveau center station, 3 long snake chains, no clasp; black & white
Oval art-nouveau center station, 3 long snake chains, no clasp; lt/med/dark blue
Oval center station with raised decorative center, blue & white; blue watchband style chain
Ornate oval milgrain center station with ribbed center design; on 5/8″ flat mesh chain; brass w/ green & white accents
Ornate oval milgrain center station with blue glass center stone; ornate patterned oval links all around; silvertone
Ornate oval milgrain center station with ribbed center design; ornate patterned oval links all around; silvertone

SQUARES and RECTANGLES
Rectangular stations (3) with an “x” pattern in center; 5/8″ flat mesh chain; brass
Rectangular silvertone faux-marcasite stations (3) on dark blue watchband style chain
Rectangular brass faux-marcasite stations (3) on salmon pink watchband style chain
Ribbed rectangular center station with tabs on both sides & ribbed green glass stone in center; on watchband style chain; silvertone
Ribbed square center station; 4 tubular mesh chains; four shades of brown
Ribbed square center station; 4 tubular mesh chains; four shades of green
Ribbed square links all around, 3 shades of green on bright goldtone
Ribbed square links all around, dark green/light/green/white on silvertone
Ribbed square links all around, red & dark brown on bright goldtone
Ribbed square links all around, black and white on silvertone

HEXAGONS, OCTAGONS, etc.
Rectangular-octagon center station accented green & white, flanked by open circles and solid squares; green tubular mesh chains
Rectangular-octagon center station accented blue & white, flanked by open circles and solid squares; blue tubular mesh chains

MISCELLANEOUS
Interpretations of these motifs are necessarily subjective; one person’s “Sumerian” may well be another’s “Egyptian”!

Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains, in reds
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains, in blues
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains, in greens
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains, in browns
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites; single chain with circles and stylized rectangles; bright brass finish
Sumerian style pendant on lozenge link chain; green & white paint on brass
Sumerian style pendant w/black glass central stone; large box chain; brass
Sumerian style pendant, brass, w/green glass ribbed central stone; chain probably not original
Three large eye-shaped links in front; watchband style chain; silvertone
Three tubular mesh chains (light/med/dark blue) with a small 1934 Chicago Worlds Fair logo medallion at one end
Double snake head lariat necklace, snake chain, embossed central ring, goldtone
Double snake head lariat necklace, snake chain, embossed central ring; silvertone

CHAINS DECORATED WITH PAINT ONLY (no findings)

This category includes solid-color and patterned chains. It does not include front-clasp necklaces (see next section.)

FLAT MESH CHAINS with ORNATE FRONT CLASP

Four different styles of front clasp were used and, like the bows, I have arbitrarily named them. The fifth clasp has so far been found only on bracelets.

These are the only “mystery jewelry maker” components that are marked, but unfortunately these only say “Pat. Pend” because apparently a patent was applied for but the process was never completed. Records of patent applications filed during the 1930s are not available.

Most of these necklaces have a painted decoration but I have found one or two that are plain.

BRACELETS

I have found far fewer bracelets than necklaces, even though I suspect many – perhaps most – of the MJM’s designs were produced as a set.

BOWS
Nubbly bow; 3 snake chains (yellow/orange/dark brown)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (light/medium/dark blue)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (light/medium/dark green)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (white/grey/black)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (silvertone & medium blue)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (silvertone/green/cream)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains; white
Tailored bow cuff bracelet, all silvertone
Tailored bow, brass with traces of old black paint, on brass woven flat mesh chain
Cutout style A bow, all silvertone, on woven flat mesh chain with brown & gold X pattern on white
Cutout style B bow, silvertone and dark blue, on dark blue woven flat mesh chain

OTHER MOTIFS
Rectangular-octagon center station accented brown & cream; brown & cream tubular mesh chains
Rectangular-octagon center station accented green & white, flanked by silvertone open circles and solid squares; green tubular mesh chains
Ornate oval milgrain center station with ribbed center portion; on 5/8″ flat mesh chain with black and white stripes.
Ornate oval milgrain center station with black glass center stone; ornate embossed oval links all around; brass, no paint
Three tubular mesh chains (lt/med/dark blue) with 1934 Chicago Worlds Fair medallion at one end
Open circle in silvertone and brown, flanked by silvertone squares; on brown woven flat mesh chain
Partial daisy flower with white center and green-tipped petals; the flowers form the entire chain; silvertone

ORNATE CLASP
I have found several bracelets using an ornate (Floral Square Pyramid) clasp with the same Patent Pending mark as the front clasps used on the necklaces. However, this clasp was only used on bracelets, not on any necklaces found thus far.

Flat mesh chain 5/8″, brass with fineline design in black
Flat mesh chain 5/8″, brass with triangle/zigzag design in black
Flat mesh chain 5/8″, brass with multicolor (purple/pink/peach/green)
Flat mesh chain 5/8″ with Floral Square Pyramid clasp; all plain brass, no paint

PAINT DECORATION ONLY
Rectangular link chains (2) in silvertone with green and white accents
Rectangular link chains (2) in silvertone with yellow and white accents
Flat mesh chain 3/8″, purple and yellow stripes on white
Flat mesh chain, width unknown, pink zigzag pattern on pink
Woven mesh flat chain, shaded green bands on silvertone
Ribbed square links all around, 3 shades of green on bright goldtone
Ribbed square links all around, red & dark brown on bright goldtone

BROOCHES

Large bow brooch in brass
Large bow brooch in silvertone
Nouveau bow with faux pearl center; brass or coppertone/bronze
Nouveau bow with faux pearl center; oxidized silvertone
Nouveau bow with faux pearl center; shiny silvertone
Two snake heads on snake chains, embossed open ring, rope-twist top bar; brass
Two snake heads on snake chains, large-bow tails, rope-twist top bar; brass

A comparison of the larger bow brooch with the much later Forstner Jewelry Company rendition is the subject of this post.

If you have any information about this jewelry or photographs of examples that are not included in my blog series, I would be delighted to include them in a future post! Please use the Direct-Contact Form on the About the Chatsworth Lady page.

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