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The following is a descriptive index of the various “Mystery Maker” jewelry designs shown within this blog. It is separated first into necklaces and bracelets, subdivided by type of chain and then listed in order of the chain quantity. If no chain quantity is indicated, that means the item has only a single chain. Brooches are listed last.

Included is a visual key to the chains as well as the bows and clasps that this maker most often used. The mesh chains were made in 3/8″ and 5/8″ widths. The “Flat Link” and the “Fine Flat” mesh chains were also used for their enamel-patterned necklaces and bracelets. To make those designs easier to locate, they appear in the sub-category “Patterned” for each of those chains. The watchband-style mesh chain was not used for the patterned items.

The pictures of the Small Box, Open Rectangular, and Tubular Mesh chains show several chains together (multi-chain necklace); however, the width given is the width of the single individual chain.

Their smaller bow was produced in a number of different stampings, to which I’ve arbitrarily given various names such as Nubbly, Tailored, Nouveau, etc for the sake of clarity. Their “chevron” is actually one-half (side) of the Tailored bow, and the ‘tails’ of the larger bow were also used on their own.

BOWS:

Large Bow  Nubbly Bow Nouveau Bow
Large Bow (with drop)           “nubbly” Small Bow          “nouveau” Small Bow

 

Tailored Bow  Blank Small Bow Chevron
“tailored” Small Bow             “blank” Small Bow             Chevron (half bow)

 

 

DECORATIVE FRONT CLASPS, MARKED PAT.PEND. ON THE SIDE PIECES:
Rococo Square Pyramid pat pend front clasp      Machine Age pat pend front clasp    Ribbed Architectural pat pend front clasp
Rococo Square Pyramid         Machine Age                      Ribbed Architectural

 

Deco Square Pyramid pat pend front clasp        Floral Square Pyramid pat pend bracelet clasp
Deco Square Pyramid                 Floral Square Pyramid
(used on necklaces)                    (used on bracelets)

 

 

BOX CLASPS & RINGS/HOOK CLASP. These are unmarked. A spring ring clasp was typically used on the snake, large box, heavy link, and pointed-end flat mesh chains.

ribbed center box     smooth center box   narrow-chain box

multi-chain rounded box   floral box   diamond box

rings and hook

 

 

 

NECKLACES

Snake
SNAKE CHAIN

Brass, large bow w/pointed drop. No enameling.
Brass, lariat style with finials; large bow tails only. No enameling.
Brass, lariat style, no enamel; large bow tails and finials accented brown and cream
Silvertone, nouveau bow with pointed drop. May have originally been accented with light blue
3 chains, yellow/orange/dk brown, nubbly bow
3 chains, yellow/red/dk brown, nubbly bow
3 chains, black/white/yellow, nubbly bow
3 chains, black/white/black; oval black and white front element; no clasp
3 chains, lt/med/dark greens; nubbly bow
3 chains, lt/med/dark reds; nubbly bow
3 chains, med/dark/darker blue; oval blue-accented front element; no clasp
3 chains, lt/med/dark greens in varying lengths. No other elements.

 

 

Small Box
SMALL BOX CHAIN (3mm square)

2 chains, lt/med reds; reds and silvertone deco pendant w/faux marcasites
2 chains, lt/med blues; blues and silvertone deco pendant w/faux marcasites
2 chains, lt/med greens; greens and silvertone deco pendant w/faux marcasites
2 chains, med/dark blue; blue open oval center station w/faux marcasite links
3 chains, plain brass (no enamel); plain brass chevron without fringe
3 chains, lt/med/dark blues, chevron w/fringe
3 chains, 1 silvertone/2 mustard yellow, nubbly bow
3 chains, 2 silvertone/1 medium blue, nubbly bow
3 chains, 2 dark blue/1 silvertone, nubbly bow
3 chains, 2 dark blue/1 white; chevron in same colors, w/
3 chains, pastel pink/blue/cream, chevron with fringe
3 chains, dark green/med green/creamy white, chevron w/fringe
3 chains, dark green/med green/bright white, nubbly bow
3 chains, lt/med/dark greens, nubbly bow
3 chains, 2 dk green/1 silvertone, nubbly bow with dk green & cream accents
3 chains, 2 coral/1 silvertone; nubbly bow with coral and cream accents
3 chains, 2 dark brown/1 red; chevron in same colors, w/fringe
3 chains, black/grey/white; chevron in same colors, w/fringe
4 chains, four shades of green. No other elements.

 

 

Large Box
LARGE BOX CHAIN (~4-5 mm square)

Brass; large bow w/pointed drop; black enamel accents on chain and bow
Brass; large Egyptian/Sumerian style pendant with black glass stone
Brass with green accents; round Greco/Aztec dome pendant with green and black accents
Brass with medium blue accents; round Greco/Aztec dome pendant with matching blue enamel
Silvertone, large bow w/pointed drop; black accents on chain and bow
Silvertone, large bow w/pointed drop. No enameling
Silvertone, plain; chevron with black and green accents and plain silver fringe
Silvertone, plain; chevron with black and red accents and plain silver fringe
Silvertone, plain; chevron with red and black accents in reversed order from above

 

 

Open Rectangles
OPEN RECTANGULAR LINK CHAIN with zigzag embossing
; 1/4″ x 1/8″
Silvertone, alternating green and white links; large bow in green and white with replacement drop
Silvertone, same necklace as above but with original pointed drop
Silvertone, alternating dark blue and white links; large bow in same colors w/ pointed drop
Silvertone with medium blue links; double chain.
Silvertone, alternating lt and dark green links; lotus flower motifs in same greens
Silvertone, fan motifs (partial lotus flower motif) in green and white;
Silvertone, lotus flower motifs in a black and white colorway
Silvertone, lotus flower motifs in dark red and dark pink colorway
Brass, lotus flower motifs, in light and dark brown colorway
Brass, lotus flower motifs, in black and white colorway

 

 

heavy oval link chain
HEAVY ROUND/OVAL LINK CHAIN

Brass, with large bow w/pointed drop; black and green accents on all
Brass, with large bow w/pointed drop; blue and black accents on all

 

 

medium oval link 1medium oval link 2
MEDIUM ROUND/OVAL LINK CHAIN with milgrain embossing
(see detail)
Brass, large bow with non-original drop. No enamel.
Brass, large bow with pointed drop; box clasp. No enamel.
Coppertone, large bow with pointed drop; no enamel.
Silvertone, large bow with pointed drop; no enamel.

 

 

Tubular
TUBULAR FINE MESH CHAIN

2 chains, medium green; hexagon center station in silvertone, green, and white
2 chains, 1 green + 1 silver (poss once white); silvertone leaf/flower pendant in green/white
2 chains, yellow and dark brown; silvertone leaf/flower pendant in same colors
3 chains, chocolate and caramel, chevron w/fringe
3 chains, lt/med/dark blue; blue/silvertone 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair medallion at one clasp end
4 chains, four shades of brown; ribbed square center station accented brown
4 chains, four shades of green; ribbed square center station accented green
4 chains, 2 red + 2 creamy off-white; ring-and-loop closure

 

 

Watchband
“WATCHBAND STYLE” FLAT MESH CHAIN (3/8” wide)

Brass, plain; tailored bow with traces of old black enamel
Brass, plain; large bow with pointed drop; chain with pointed ends
Brass, plain; group of 4 flowers atop crossed over pointed front ends
Brass; tailored bow ‘blank’ in silvertone with red enamel accents and yellow 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair logo medallion
Brass with alternating dark green and white accents on links
Silvertone, plain; large bow with pointed drop; length unknown
Silvertone, plain; tailored bow; chain ends pointed, spring ring clasp
Silvertone, plain; tailored bow; chain ends flat, box clasp
Silvertone, plain; tailored bow with glass faux turquoise baguette in center. No enameling
Silvertone, plain; ribbed/tabbed center station with green ribbed glass stone inset
Silvertone, plain; front section is large silvertone “eye shaped” links; box clasp
Salmon over brass. No other elements.
Light blue, with blue enameled central disk with silvertone tab; front half of necklace is the mesh chain but back half is silvertone D-link chain.
Medium blue with silvertone findings; round/oval blue center station incorporating hexagon and shell shaped designs and white accents
Dark blue, in four sections w/silvertone faux marcasite links; three rectangular silver stations accented dark blue. Overall length 16.25”
Salmon over brass, same necklace as above but with goldtone marcasite links and rectanglar goldtone stations accented salmon.
Red; silvertone tailored bow ‘blank’ with red 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair logo medallion
White, with brass circular center station and 2 white enamel tassels
Yellow, with yellow enameled center disk with silvertone tab; back of of necklace is a silvertone D-link chain
narrow watchband
NARROW WATCHBAND-STYLE CHAIN (1/8″ wide; this is a single row of the Watchband Style flat mesh
)
Medium blue; silvertone large bow “tails” attached to two open circles enameled in medium and dark blue
Dark green and white; double chain in front only; two round side medallions

 

 

Plain Flat Mesh
FLAT LINK MESH (3/8″ wide; has 9 rows of links; does not have a seam on reverse)

Silvertone, plain; center silvertone dome with tab in middle
Patterned:
Black and turquoise triangles over silvertone; Machine Age front clasp
Dark grey and dark brown arrow pattern pointing toward center front, over silvertone; Deco Square Pyramid front clasp
Medium green and cream triangles over brass; box clasp
Red, green and black hexagon pattern over brass; Deco Square Pyramid front clasp
Lavender-purple and golden yellow diagonal stripes over white background; Machine Age front clasp
Multicolor blue, green, red and black design over brass; Deco Square Pyramid front clasp

 

 

Plain Flat Mesh 11 row
FLAT LINK MESH (5/8” wide; has 11 rows of links; does not have a seam on reverse)
Brass, plain; three rectangular brass stations with an X and ribbed pattern
Brass with alternating rows of pale sage/mint green and white; ornate oval center station accented green and white, with ribbed center.
Brass with alternating rows of black and white; missing original center station medallion
Silvertone, plain; polished small bow “blank” with plain round dome center; box clasp.
Silvertone, plain; with Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp which may be goldtone
Silvertone, plain; with central round dome and pair of red-accented bow tails beneath; box clasp.
Silvertone, with faint traces of blue and black enamel lines. Large bow with pointed drop, enameled in blue and black
Patterned:
Black and medium blue triangles over silvertone; Ribbed Architectural front clasp
Black triangle/zigzag pattern over silvertone; Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp
Black triangles over silvertone; box clasp
Black and white (right side black, left side white); box clasp
Black zigzag/triangle pattern over silvertone; Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp
Black and dark green triangles over brass; original front (Ribbed Architectural) clasp was replaced by a modern foldover
Pink open zigzag pattern over lighter pink background; box clasp
Pink and blue open zigzag pattern over white background; box clasp
Salmon pink and white diagonal stripes over brass; box clasp
Medium and dark blue small triangles over silvertone; Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp
Blue, black and red zigzag/triangle pattern over brass; Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp
Light green open zigzag pattern over darker green background; box clasp
Green, purple/lavender and pink lozenge and hexagon pattern over brass; Rococo Square Pyramid clasp
Medium green and golden yellow diagonal stripes on white background; box clasp
Red concentric diamond or snakeskin pattern over silvertone; box clasp
Red and dark brown small triangles over brass; box clasp
Multicolor purple, pink, peach and green lozenge pattern over brass; Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp

 

 

Fine Mesh
FINE FLAT MESH CHAIN (5/8” wide; has a seam on the reverse side)
Brass, plain; silvertone large bow “tails only”, attached to a silvertone circle having a Greco/Atzec/Gaelic(?) motif. Center station is moveable. No enameling.
Brass, plain; brass large bow tails/Gaelic circle. No enameling.
Brass, plain; with Rococo Square Pyramid front clasp. Note: chain type subject to revision due to poor photograph; may be Flat Link Mesh instead.
Silvertone, with large bow, spring ring clasp and pointed chain ends. No enameling.
Silvertone with a shaded green lozenge/arrows/circles pattern (single shade of green)
Silvertone with a shaded red lozenge/arrows/circles pattern (single shade of red)
Dark chocolate brown; large flat open circle at center accented brown on top and ribbed on reverse; square silvertone side accents.
White over silvertone; nouveau bow in white/black
Salmon, with three large open silvertone ovals and faux marcasite links
Patterned:
Green bands, dark to light shaded effect; silvertone base; box clasp
Green geometric lozenges with diamond shaped centers and a shaded effect; silvertone base; box clasp
Red geometric lozenges with diamond shaped centers and a shaded effect; silvertone base; box clasp

 

narrow fine flat mesh
NARROW FINE MESH CHAIN (1/8″ wide; has a center seam)
Light blue; silver nouveau bow w/white and lt blue, w ‘bubbles’ drop
White and black; silver nouveau bow w/white and black and bubbles drop

 

 

Ribbed Square
RIBBED SQUARES (5/8”) with hidden clasp

Light/med/dark greens over bright goldtone; 17” long
White/med green/dark green over silvertone; 15” long
Red and dark brown over bright goldtone; 15” long
Black and white over bright goldtone, 15” long

 

Ladder Chain
LADDER CHAIN (1/4″ wide)
Brass with green Bakelite bow, brass bow tails trimmed green
Silvertone with green Bakelite bow, silvertone tails trimmed green
Silvertone with green Bakelite bow and overlapping bow tails trimmed green
Silvertone with red Bakelite bow, no bow tails, replacement clasp
Silvertone with black Bakelite bow, no bow tails

 

Lozenge links
LOZENGE LINK CHAIN

Cream and med reddish-brown over silvertone; nubbly bow w/pointed drop.
Cream and dark green over silvertone; nubbly bow w/pointed drop.
Green and white over brass; large Egyptian/Sumerian style pendant to match.
Red and white over brass; nubbly bow w/pointed drop


MISCELLANEOUS CHAINS
:
Very fine link chain (possibly not original) with chevron pendant in medium and dark green atop a silvertone oval with lower half in medium green.
Very fine link chain (possibly not original) with pendant of two leaves above a round red berry/cherry which may be either glass or Bakelite.
Round link chain with ribbed rectangular connectors, silvertone large bow with drop
Brass Celtic/Greek design circles with integral tab connectors (circles used as elements in other necklaces) form the chain; a possible but unconfirmed design.
Narrow snake(?) chain (possibly not original) with Sumerian/Egyptian style pendant with ribbed green glass stone in center
Combination flat mesh with 4 rope chains; brass; two “soft bows” (not shown above) at sides
Combination flat mesh with 4 rope chains; silvertone; two “soft bows” at sides
Embossed flat oval links about 1″ high; ornate center station with blue glass stone

 

BRACELETS

SNAKE CHAIN
3 chains, yellow/orange/dk brown, nubbly bow
3 chains, lt/med/dark blue, nubbly bow
3 chains, lt/med/dark greens, nubbly bow
3 chains, black/grey/white, nubbly bow

SMALL BOX CHAIN
3 chains, 2 silvertone/1 medium blue, nubbly bow
3 chains, 2 medium green/1 silvertone, nubbly bow with green and cream accents
3 chains, all white, nubbly bow

OPEN RECTANGULAR LINK CHAIN
2 chains, silvertone, alternating green and white enamel on links. Length 7.25”

TUBULAR FINE MESH CHAIN
2 chains, medium green; hexagon center station accented green; square silvertone accents and rings
2 chains, chocolate brown and mocha; hexagon center station in same two colors
2 chains; three large round circles linked together in front, and square accents. All goldtone.
3 chains, lt/med/dark blue; blue/silvertone 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair medallion at one clasp end

FLAT LINK MESH (3/8″ wide; no seam on reverse)
Patterned:

Lavender-purple and golden yellow diagonal stripes over white background; box clasp

FLAT LINK MESH (5/8″ wide; no seam on reverse)
Patterned:
Black lines in a geometric pattern over brass; Floral Square Pyramid decorative clasp
Pink open zigzag pattern over lighter pink background; box clasp. Note: the seller’s description cited this as being 5/8″ wide which is very unusual for the bracelets and so may possibly have been a typo for 3/8″ instead.
Multicolor purple, pink, peach and green lozenge pattern over brass; Floral Square Pyramid Pat.Pend. clasp. Assuming 5/8″ width but may be 3/8″

FINE FLAT MESH CHAIN (3/8” wide; has a seam on the reverse)
Chocolate/mocha brown; large flat open circle accented brown on top and ribbed on reverse
Brass, plain, with Floral Square Pyramid decorative clasp. Note: exact chain type uncertain but appears this one; may also be 5/8″ wide.
Patterned:
Dark brown and honey/gold X pattern over white background; polished small bow with cutouts giving a ribboned effect
Green bands, dark to light shaded effect; silvertone base; box clasp.

RIBBED SQUARES (3/8”) with hidden clasp
Light/med/dark greens over bright goldtone, 7.5” long
Red and dark brown over bright goldtone, 7.5”

CUFF/BANGLE/WRAP
Silvertone cuff, plain, with tailored bow; no enameling; hinged back

MISCELLANEOUS
Embossed flat ovals, about 1″ high, brass; ornate center station with black glass stone

 

BROOCHES

Large Bow brooch, in brass and also in silvertone plating over brass
Small Bow Brooch in “Nouveau” stamping with faux pearl in center; silvertone plating over brass

 

If you have any information about this jewelry or photographs of examples that are not included in my blog series, I would be delighted to include them in a future post! Please use the Direct-Contact Form on the About the Chatsworth Lady page.

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