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The following is a descriptive index of the various “Mystery Maker” jewelry designs shown within this blog. I have grouped them according to their main design element – e.g., bow, chevron (half-bow), geometric shapes (circle, hexagon, etc.) Each item is a link to the post in which it appears.

A gallery of their chains appears below. All of their chains and castings were brass but some received a silvertone, bright goldtone, or coppertone plating as well.  Chains that were fully dipped in enamel paint are described by their color(s), e.g., “yellow/orange/dark brown”, “blue & silvertone”, etc.  Chains that are only partially painted are noted as “accented” (e.g.,  “green and black accents on brass”) or, for the flat mesh chains, “patterned.” Items without any paint are listed simply as “brass” or, if plated brass, “silvertone”, “coppertone” and “bright goldtone.”

The Mystery Jewelry Maker also used six styles of flat chains:

The “watchband style” is 5/8″ wide but there was also a 1/8″ narrow version which is just a single outer row. The “flat mesh” chain came in two widths: 3/8″ (nine rows of links) and 5/8″ (11 rows.)  There’s also what I call the “woven mesh chain” because its construction differs from the ‘flat mesh’. The narrow woven mesh chain is 1/8″ wide.

 Their “tubular mesh” chain may be simply a rolled version of their woven mesh chain. It is flexible enough to be tied in knots.

These are the clasps this maker used. In addition, a spring ring clasp was typically used on the snake, heavy link, large box, and pointed-end flat mesh chains. Photos of their special decorative front clasps appear at the start of that link section.

If no quantity of chain is indicated in a description, that means there is only one. The  first (necklaces) section of this index is followed by a section for bracelets; the two known brooch designs are at the end. I have not yet found any earrings by this maker.

BOW MOTIFS

The majority of bow motifs by the Mystery Jewelry maker come from two castings. The larger bow has a matching pointed/tear-shaped drop except when made as a brooch. The ‘tails’ of this bow were also used in combination with other shapes.

The smaller bow received various stampings – which I’ve dubbed Nouveau, Nubbly, and Tailored – although some were left unstamped for an especially Deco look.

The bow at the top left may be Bakelite or some other Deco era plastic; these usually appear with a sleek pair of tails I’ve named “deco bow tails.”  I have found the “floral bow” on only one necklace style to date; it may have been added to the line toward the end of the company’s operation. The cutout/slashed bow reminds me of ribbons and I’ve found it in two styles. One is clearly from the Small-Bow family because it has the “rear wings”. The other (style B) does not have the wings and the middle “ribbon” is slightly wider.

Large bow, snake chain; brass
Large bow, rectangle link chain; green & white accents on silvertone
Large bow, rectangle link chain; dark blue & white accents on silvertone
Large bow, large box chain; silvertone 
Large bow, large box chain; black accents on brass
Large bow, large box chain; black accents on silvertone
Large bow, medium link chain; brass
Large bow, medium link chain; silvertone
Large bow, medium link chain; coppertone
Large bow, heavy link chain; green & black accents on brass
Large bow, heavy link chain; blue & black accents on brass
Large bow, watchband style chain; brass
Large bow, watchband style chain; silvertone
Large bow, 5/8″ woven mesh chain with pointed ends; silvertone
Large bow, 5/8″ flat mesh chain; blue and black accents on silvertone
Large bow, round-and-ribbed link chain; silvertone 

Large bow tails, lariat style snake chain with finials; brass
Large bow tails, lariat style snake chain with finals; brown and white accents on brass
Large bow tails attached to a Gaelic motif circle, on 5/8″ woven mesh flat chain, brass/no paint
Large bow tails atop two blue open circles; blue narrow watchband chain
Large bow tails attached to a Gaelic motif circle (both silvertone), on 5/8″ brass woven mesh flat chain

Nouveau bow on snake chain; silvertone
Nouveau bow, white & black, on white 5/8″ woven mesh flat chain
Nouveau bow, white & light blue with ‘bubbles’ drops; blue narrow woven flat chain
Nouveau bow, white & black with bubbles drops; narrow woven flat chain in same colors 

Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (yellow/orange/dark brown)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (yellow/red/dark brown)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (black/white/yellow)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (green shades)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (red shades)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (mustard yellow & silvertone)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (medium blue & silvertone)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (dark blue & silvertone)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (greens & white)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (green shades)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (green/cream/silvertone)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (coral pink & silvertone)
Nubbly bow with pointed drop, lozenge link chain (brown/cream/silvertone)
Nubbly bow with pointed drop, lozenge link chain (green/cream/silvertone)
Nubbly bow with pointed drop, lozenge link chain, (red/white/brass)

Tailored bow, watchband style mesh chain; brass w/traces of black paint
Tailored bow, watchband style mesh chain with pointed ends; silvertone
Tailored bow, swatchband style mesh chain with box clasp; silvertone
Tailored bow with turquoise glass stone in center; watchband style chain; silvertone

Unstamped bow with 1934 Worlds Fair medallion in center; brass watchband style  chain
Unstamped bow with 1934 Worlds Fair medallion in center; red watchband style chain
Unstamped bow with dome center, 5/8″ flat mesh chain, silvertone

Green Bakelite bow with brass deco tails; brass ladder chain
Green Bakelite bow with silvertone deco tails; silvertone ladder chain
Green Bakelite bow with silvertone overlapping deco tails; silvertone ladder chain
Red Bakelite bow (no tails);silvertone ladder chain
Black Bakelite bow (no tails); silvertone ladder chain

Deco bow tails below a dome, 5/8″ flat mesh chain; all silvertone but tails have red accents

Floral bows (one each side) with 4 graduated rope chains in front, 5/8″ flat mesh chain in back; bright goldtone
Floral bows (one each side) with 4 graduated rope chains in front, watchband style flat chain in back; silvertone

CHEVRON (TRIANGLE) MOTIF

This “chevron”, or triangle, motif is actually one half (side) of the small bow casting. Unlike the full bows, I have only found it in the Tailored stamping. It often has a fringe of small box chains but not always.

Brass chevron with no fringe; 3 small box chains
Silvertone pendant with green accents; no fringe; set on an open oval that is half silvertone/half green
Silvertone w/black & green accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain
Silvertone w/black outer & red inner accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain
Silvertone w/red outer & black inner accents; with fringe; plain silvertone large box chain 
Blue shades, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Blue & white, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Pink/blue/cream, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Greens & white, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Red and dark browns, with fringe; 3 small box chains
White, black & grey, with fringe; 3 small box chains
Dark brown & tan, with fringe; 3 tubular mesh chains

FLOWERS AND/OR LEAVES

This category includes what I call the “lotus flower” motif which could be interpreted as a flower, leaves, or a fan shape.

Group of 4 daisylike flowers on watchband style flat chain; brass
Leaf & Flower pendant; 2 tubular mesh chains; silvertone, green & white
Leaf & Flower pendant; 2 tubular mesh chains; silvertone, yellow & brown
Leaves & Berry pendant: 2 brass leaves above a glass or bakelite berry; brass bail
Round floral motif medallions (one each side) in silvertone w/green accents; narrow watchband chains in green & white
Lotus flowers; rectangular link chain; brass w/light and dark brown accents
Lotus flowers; rectangular link chain; brass w/black & white accents
Lotus flowers; rectangular link chain; silvertone w/green accents
Lotus flowers; rectangular link chain; silvertone w/ black & white accents
Lotus flowers; rectangular link chain; silvertone w/red & pink accents
Small fans (partial lotus flower); rectangular link chain; silvertone w/green & white accents

DECORATIVE ELEMENTS by SHAPE

If there is more than one element/shape, it is sorted by the dominant one.

CIRCLES & DOMES
Open circle in center, silvertone and brown; flanked by 2 silvertone squares; brown 5/8″ woven mesh flat chain
Open circles (3) in blue with silvertone large bow tails; narrow watchband chain
Open circles (3) grouped in center with ribbed links; tubular mesh chains; bright goldtone
Open circular Celtic-motif links all around; brass
Circle and dome center station (brass) with 2 dangling white tassels; white watchband style flat mesh chain
Dome with center tab, on 3/8″ mesh chain; silvertone
Flat-topped dome with vertical tab in center over blue paint; blue watchband style mesh chain in front, silvertone dome-and-D-link chain in rear
Flat-topped dome with vertical tab in center over yellow paint; yellow watchband style mesh chain in front, silvertone dome-and-D-link chain in rear

OVALS
Open oval center station flanked by faux marcasites; small box chain; med/dark blue
Open ovals (3 silvertone) connected by faux marcasite links; salmon pink 5/8″ woven mesh chain
Oval art-nouveau center station, 3 long snake chains, no clasp; black & white
Oval art-nouveau center station, 3 long snake chains, no clasp; lt/med/dark blue
Oval center station with raised decorative center, blue & white; blue watchband style chain
Ornate oval milgrain center station with ribbed center design; on 5/8″ flat mesh chain; brass w/ green & white accents
Ornate oval milgrain center station with blue glass center stone; ornate patterned oval links all around; silvertone

SQUARES and RECTANGLES
Rectangular stations (3) with an “x” pattern in center; 5/8″ flat mesh chain; brass
Rectangular silvertone faux-marcasite stations (3)  on dark blue watchband style chain
Rectangular brass faux-marcasite stations (3)  on salmon pink watchband style chain
Ribbed rectangular center station with tabs on both sides & ribbed green glass stone in center; on watchband style chain; silvertone
Ribbed square center station; 4 tubular mesh chains; four shades of brown
Ribbed square center station; 4 tubular mesh chains; four shades of green
Ribbed square links all around, 3 shades of green on bright goldtone
Ribbed square links all around, dark green/light/green/white on silvertone
Ribbed square links all around, red & dark brown on bright goldtone

HEXAGONS, OCTAGONS, etc
Rectangular-octagon center station accented green & white,  flanked by open circles and solid squares; green tubular mesh chains

MISCELLANEOUS
Interpretations of these motifs are necessarily subjective; one person’s “Sumerian” may well be another’s “Egyptian”!

Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains in reds
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains in blues
Art deco pendant w/faux marcasites, 2 small box chains in greens
Sumerian style pendant on lozenge link chain; green & white paint on brass
Sumerian style pendant w/black glass central stone; large box chain; brass
Sumerian style pendant, brass, w/green glass ribbed central stone; chain probably not original
Aztec style dome pendant; large box chain; green accents
Aztec style dome pendant; large box chain; blue accents
Three large eye-shaped links in front; watchband style chain; silvertone
Three tubular mesh chains (light/med/dark blue) with a small 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair logo medallion at one end

CHAINS DECORATED WITH PAINT ONLY

This category also includes solid-color chains that do not have any station(s), pendant, or decorative front clasp.

Two rectangular link chains with medium blue accents
Three snake chains (lt/med/dark greens) in varying lengths
Four small box chains in different shades of green
Four tubular mesh chains, 2 red & 2 cream
Watchband style chain, brass with green and white accents
Watchband style chain, salmon pink
Flat mesh chain, 3/8″, green & cream triangles on brass
Flat mesh chain, 3/8″, red diagonal bars on off-white
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, brass w/alternating rows of black & white
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, one side black/one side white
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, pink zigzags on pink
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, pink and blue zigzags on white
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, white & salmon pink stripes on brass
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, light & dark green zigzags
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, green & yellow diagonal stripes on white
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, green and white diagonal stripes on brass
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, red snakeskin pattern on silvertone
Flat mesh chain, 5/8″, red & dark brown small triangles on brass
Woven mesh chain, 5/8″, shaded diamond design in red
Woven mesh chain, 5/8″, shaded diamond design in green
Woven mesh chain, 5/8″, shaded bars design in green 

FLAT MESH CHAINS with ORNATE FRONT CLASP

Four different styles of front clasp were used and, like the bows, I have arbitrarily named them. The fifth clasp has so far been found only on bracelets.

These are the only “mystery jewelry maker” components that are marked, but unfortunately these only say “Pat. Pend” because apparantly a patent was applied for but the process was never completed. Records of patent applications filed during the 1930s are not available.

Most of these necklaces have a painted decoration but I have found one or two that are plain.

Machine Age; black and turquoise triangles on silvertone 3/8″ flat mesh
Machine Age; purple & yellow diagonal stripes on white 3/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural; black and blue triangles on silvertone 5/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural; black and pink triangles on brass 3/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural; black and white triangles on brass 3/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural (removed); black and green triangles on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural; brown and white triangles on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Ribbed Architectural on flat mesh; all brass
Rococo Square Pyramid; black triangles on silvertone 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid; medium & dark blue triangles on silvertone 5/8″ flat mesh Rococo Square Pyramid; pink/black/green triangles on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid; red/black/green triangles on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid; blue/black/red triangles on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid; green/purple/pink lozenges on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid; multicolor (purple/pink/peach/green) lozenges on brass 5/8″ flat mesh
Rococo Square Pyramid on 5/8″ flat mesh; all brass, no paint
Rococo Square Pyramid on 5/8″ flat mesh; all silvertone, no paint
Deco Square Pyramid; brown and grey arrows on silvertone 3/8″ flat mesh
Deco Square Pyramid; red, green & black hexagons on brass 3/8″ flat mesh
Deco Square Pyramid; red and green Xs and arrows on silvertone flat mesh
Deco Square Pyramid; multicolor (blue/green/red/black) on brass 3/8″ flat mesh

BRACELETS

I have found far fewer bracelets than necklaces, even though I suspect many – perhaps most – of the MJM’s designs were produced as a set.

BOWS
Nubbly bow; 3 snake chains (yellow/orange/dark brown)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (light/medium/dark blue)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (light/medium/dark green)
Nubbly bow, 3 snake chains (white/grey/black)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (silvertone & medium blue)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains (silvertone/green/cream)
Nubbly bow, 3 small box chains; white
Tailored bow cuff bracelet, all silvertone
Cutout all-silvertone bow on woven flat mesh chain with brown & gold X pattern on white

OTHER MOTIFS
Rectangular-octagon center station accented brown & cream; brown & cream tubular mesh chains
Rectangular-octagon  center station accented green & white, flanked by silvertone open circles and solid squares; green tubular mesh chains
Ornate oval milgrain center station with black glass center stone; ornate embossed oval links all around; brass, no paint
Three tubular mesh chains (lt/med/dark blue) with 1933/34 Chicago Worlds Fair medallion at one end
Open circle in silvertone and brown, flanked by silvertone squares; on brown woven flat mesh chain

ORNATE CLASP
I have found several bracelets using an ornate clasp with the same Patent Pending mark as the front clasps used on the necklaces.

Flat mesh chain 5/8″, brass with fineline design in black paint; Floral Square Pyramid clasp
Flat mesh chain 5/8″, multicolor (purple/pink/peach/green) on brass, Floral Square Pyramid clasp
Woven mesh flat chain with Floral Square Pyramid clasp; plain brass

PAINT DECORATION ONLY
Rectangular link chains (2) in silvertone with green and white accents
Flat mesh chain 3/8″, purple and yellow stripes on white
Flat mesh chain, width unknown, pink zigzag pattern on pink
Woven mesh flat chain, shaded green bands on silvertone
Ribbed square links all around, 3 shades of green on bright goldtone
Ribbed square links all around, red & dark brown on bright goldtone

BROOCHES

I have found only two brooches, and both are bows.

Large bow brooch in brass
Large bow brooch in silvertone
Nouveau bow with faux pearl center; oxidized silvertone

A comparison of the larger bow brooch with the much later Forstner Jewelry Company rendition is the subject of this post.

If you have any information about this jewelry or photographs of examples that are not included in my blog series, I would be delighted to include them in a future post! Please use the Direct-Contact Form on the About the Chatsworth Lady page.

Browse all 1930s Mystery Jewelry Maker posts

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