Four newly discovered pieces (two necklaces and two bracelets) from my mysterious 1930s jewelry manufacturer are shown here, including one with a few elements not seen before. All are unquestionably this designer’s work.
This is the green version of the triple snake chain bow bracelet previously illustrated in the fifth post in this series . In fact, if you look closely at the upper left semicircle within the bow on this bracelet, you will see a tiny bit of the same blue enamel used on that one; perhaps the painter literally went from one to the other! 🙂 I am sure that they made a matching necklace for this bracelet (and for the blue one as well) because exactly such a set in autumn colors of brown, orange and yellow can be seen in Part One of the series.
Here’s their textured-bow box-chain necklace done in a combination of salmon pink enamel and silvertone metal. (I have no idea how this one got past me when it was offered for sale in 2013; I must have been asleep that day!) Part One of this series shows the identical necklace, in the holdings of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in a green-and-silvertone version; Part Three has an example in navy blue and silver. They also produced a “reversed color” version (seen in Part One) with only the inner chain enameled in a medium blue and the two outer ones left as silvertone. This is the same shade that appears on my mother’s red necklace seen first in Part One. It is not the same as the pink used in the pink/blue/white necklace shown in the third image in that post; that shade is more of a baby pink.
This matching necklace/bracelet set has several newly discovered elements. Although the fully enameled tubular mesh chain is the same type seen in the two mocha-and-chocolate colored necklaces shown in Parts One and Four, this is the first time that I’ve seen this “looped” trim effect at one end. It gives the piece a very tailored yet sporty look. I’ve also never seen this central station before. It took me a while to remember why the shape looks familiar: Christian Dior resurrected the same elongated octagon shape in an Art Deco Revival necklace/bracelet set during the 1970s, using 18k gold, gripoix glass, and enamel. The pair of square silvertone stations in the necklace is another newfound design element. The clasp is the same one this maker used for their goldtone choker shown in image #A-11 in Part One.
If you have any information about this jewelry or photographs of examples that have not yet appeared in this blog series, I would be delighted to include them in a future post! Please use the Contact Form on the About the Chatsworth Lady page.