I’ve recently found several “new” designs by my elusive and mysterious 1930s jewelry maker, including a chain never seen before as well as a new pairing of design elements.
This fascinating piece is one of two “finds” by a reader (thank you so much for the photos, Sarah!) and is the first time I’ve seen an all-metal (meaning no enamel) necklace of theirs in a choker length. The triple circle design in front is also being seen for the first time and is oh so very Art Deco! The closest ‘relative’ to this necklace is the green-enameled necklace/bracelet set included in an earlier post. I had been assuming that the only necklace that was produced completely sans enameling was the larger bow-with-drop… and also that the chokers were always fully enameled… but this example shows that clearly wasn’t always the case. Sarah’s photo niccely shows the detail of the central station area, and I’m amazed at what fantastic condition those three ‘rings’ are in! The necklace is 14” long so it is a true choker length.
Another newfound design is this 17” long necklace that combines two known elements plus a new chain style. This textured bow is the same one seen on many of the Style A pieces in previous posts but here it is paired with the drop from the Style B bow. The seller of this necklace describes the colors as “pink and cream” although to my eyes it appears more of a brownish pink (though probably the same salmon-pink enamel color as the triple-box-chain necklace here). This chain, composed of thin lozenge shapes with what appears to be a fine milgrain edge, is one that I’ve never seen before but clearly is original since the enameling is a perfect match to the bow elements.
The third photo not only shows the construction of this particular bow style but also that both sides of the chain are enamelled – not just the front side, as one would expect. It also shows that the bow’s actual construction could differ: compare this photo with the one below which is the back of the bow/drop/snakechain necklace seen in a prior update.
Sarah’s other find is the all-silvertone large-bow-and-drop necklace but with their flat mesh chain instead of the formerly-seen box or link chains. I had come across one with this chain before but because the bow had enameling and the chain had none, I had some doubt about whether the chain was original to the piece. However, this example (as well as the following one) proves that the maker did indeed pair this bow/drop with this chain.
And with perfect timing, here’s a necklace using the same chain/bow pairing, this time in a newfound colorway of blue and black enamel on both. In addition to the colorway, there’s something else intriguing about the enameling here: See how the painting on the chain was done on the diagonal? That’s “new” also, and it brings up the possibility that this same maker may have also done an entirely different range of necklaces that date from the same time period (and which will be examined in a future post). It is a bit hard to see unless you look very closely – because there is considerable wear to the enamel on the chain – but each diagonal line of blue is flanked by a line of black. I’d like to have seen the entire length of the chain but this was the only photo available (drat it!). This necklace is 17”long.
This is a dark-brown-and-yellow version of the green-and-white necklace seen in the second example here, and is the same length (15.5” chain, plus the leaf-and-flower drop). This colorway reminds me of a bumblebee! Unfortunately the seller’s photos are very blurry but the colors do seem accurate. I wonder how many other colors they made this necklace in? I would pounce on a pink-and-green version in a moment. 🙂
This bracelet could have matched any of their silvertone necklaces using this chain, such as either of the green-and-white necklaces using this chain in the last big update. Length is 7.5″. I have only seen this clasp used on this bracelet so far, not on any of their necklaces.
Many thanks again to Sarah Foelske for sharing your 1930s Mystery Maker finds! 🙂
If you have any information about this jewelry or photographs of examples that do not yet appear in this blog series, I would be delighted to include them in a future post! Please use the Contact Form on the About the Chatsworth Lady page.